My, my, my! What an incredibly thrilling, emotional and beautiful experience. Yesterday, on July 16th, I celebrated the festive day of La Virgen Del Carmen, in Estepona, for the first time in all my years that I live in Spain. After yesterday, I feel excitement to go back every year. Why? It is the most intimate I have felt with the Andalusian culture in my entire life. Goosebumps!
Who is La Virgen del Carmen?
She is the patroness of sailors, fishermen and coastal communities. She is the lady, symbolising protection, guidance and faith for those at sea. To honour La Virgen, on July 16th, many activities are organised. For instance, in Estepona fishermen held a competition showcasing their incredible skills at fixing fishing nets during the morning hours! Everything is closed throughout the day, so it is the perfect day to honour the Virgen del Carmen at the local beaches. Finally, in the late afternoon and through into the late evening hours, La Virgen is taken out of her chapel and is paraded around the boulevard. She is celebrated in song, and hundreds of people walking along her side, escorting her to the sea shore.
Traditions
In order to celebrate this day, La Virgen del Carmen is completely decorated with all typed of flowers and the most beautiful veil. Candles at nighttime! Here in the South, claveles are the most typical flower, but roses are also not uncommon!
A mass is held in the morning, starting the day off with celebratory words of faith and guidance. From lunch time already boats gather around the meeting point and celebrate their day off at sea, with friends and family. Boats too can be decorated with flowers and ornaments celebrating La Patrona del Mar!
The moment everyone is waiting for
The most incredible moment of the day that everyone gathers at the beach for is the following. The Virgen del Carmen is taken out of her chapel, along the coast, and all the way to the meeting point where the entire community is waiting for her, applauding her and the brave men who carry her. Carefully, she is brought closer to the shore, where she is placed on a boat of her own. This in itself is a spectacle, but you must imagine the entire context. There are dozens of boats honouring her and opening the waters for her. On land, hundreds of people chanting and clapping! Everyone with their feet in the sea, to feel as connected to her as possible.
When time is ripe, from the boats, captains start firing their fireworks, inviting La Virgen del Carmen into the Sea, bringing her home. And what happens then is pure magic. As everyone sings traditional songs and claps for her, the boat she rests on is pushed into the water and you see her glide, you see her float! With tears in one’s eyes, you watch her bless all the fisher’s boats, granting them another year of safety, protection and prosperity on the waters.
Wouldn’t miss it for the world!
This day symbolises so much more than just religion. There was an atmosphere of hope in the air. People expressed happiness and togetherness. It was incredible to see all the fishermen helping each other out, sharing their food. Every boat positioned themselves in such a way so that everyone could see La Virgen, and to be blessed by her. Everyone followed la Virgen on the water, kept applauding her, kept singing for her: Guapa, guapa y guapa!
It was an experience that was made even more spectacular by witnessing it from the Sea. I definitely recommend experiencing it from land. But if you ever get the chance to get on a boat and watch the spectacle, then do not deny the opportunity!
Danielle Ernstsen | 17th July 2025
